I was never particularly enthralled by Colorado. I didn’t grow up in one of those Privileged Ski Families™ and the only hike I took was by command of my father when I’d ask for a few bucks. My geographic romanticization was reserved for the likes of New York City, Paris, and other chic urban jungles where I fashioned my future self the next Carrie Bradshaw (but a better writer) dripping in designer (but could actually afford it). One is either charmed or repulsed by such naïveté.
…That is, until a few years ago when I discovered the beat generation and Amendment 64 was passed. Suddenly this rocky land of legal pot milk and honey became a tantalizing mecca, and I was unsurprised by my friends’ journeys out west to put down new roots.
Colorado’s appeal peaked for me (mountain puns!) about a year ago. I had been living in Philadelphia for a while and the city that once enchanted me with all its cabs and culture started losing its luster. I harbored an intense yearning for the fresh air and nature missing from my surroundings. I longed to explore spaces that hadn’t been tweaked and developed by the hands of corporate America. I wanted to walk the Denver streets like Jack Kerouac and similarly befriend quirky, nomadic dreamers. In my mind, and loosely confirmed by my travels, Colorado was home to progressive spirits who welcome you with heady beers and and REI coupons. I thought it was the perfect pause + reset to clear my head and give my writing an inspired boost.
I planned the trip with my *ex-boyfriend/turned best friend/turned something like a boyfriend/but who knows* to celebrate the 4th of July and my 27th birthday. He’s far from a planner or traveler, so I knew it was my job to refine the details. This was surprisingly new for me. When I thought about it, I had never been the sole planner of any trip I’d taken. So I began breaking down everything I wanted out of a visit to this colorful state. My list was as follows:
- Explore Denver. Because I wanted the focus of this trip to be less city-oriented, I really only wanted to spend a day-ish in Denver to cross it off the list. It also made sense logistically because of the airport.
- Visit a hot spring. Colorado is home to a number of natural hot springs. Todd is a biggggg relaxer (lol). He loves taking baths. He loves hot tubs. I knew this would be well-received by us both.
- Hike. This needs no explanation. My most highly anticipated plan was immersing myself in nature and seeing the Rocky Mountains IRL.
- See a show at Red Rocks. We lucked out that one of our favorite artists, Zeds Dead, holds an annual 2-day mini-fest when we would be there.
- Visit friends. Around 2015-2016, a decent amount of people we know moved to Colorado. This was a perfect opportunity to reconnect.
Denver
ScooTours Denver
I can add a vespa to the list of things I didn’t know I needed until I had them, much like a skincare routine and seaweed salad. I will recommend ScooTours until my dying day. It’s no wonder they have excellent reviews on TripAdvisor and the owner/instructor, David, is so loved. He truly takes the time to ensure you’re safe and comfortable before you set out for your motorized day. Bonus points that he’s hysterical and treats customers like old friends. We got lost in Denver and eventually hit the countryside to Golden. I can wholeheartedly say it is one of my favorite things I’ve done.
Ember Hostel
After spending our first night in an Airbnb in Aurora devoted to the cannabis industry, I booked us a room at the Ember Hostel in Denver. I absolutely love hostels, and this might be my favorite one yet! Ember is a converted mansion decorated gorgeously with victorian mirrors and dark, jewel-toned couches. The beds are comfortable and include silk curtains that turn each bunk into its own private nook. The staff was incredibly friendly and stored our luggage safely until check-in, and offered free coffee around the clock and pastries for breakfast. The best part, though, was the outdoor space. Ember boasts a 12-person jacuzzi, patio furniture beneath twinkling string lights, and a fire pit. We met some unforgettable characters and shared laughs, beers, and smokes until it was off to rest up for the remainder of our journey.
If you’ve never stayed at a hostel, you are missing out. Not only are they typically the most cost effective lodging option, but the experience is as authentic as they come. You meet travelers from all over and can make lifelong friends, which comes in handy if you ever feel pulled toward a bout of couch surfing. Because Denver has seen a surge of transplants and visitors since the growth of the cannabis industry, I’d say it’s an especially great place to stay at a hostel in the U.S. because the vibes are extra chill and communal.
Steamboat Springs
Of all the places to go in Colorado, I wouldn’t have pictured hitting Steamboat, a popular winter resort town in the summer. But when I researched Best Hot Springs in Colorado and Strawberry Park topped the lists, I knew I had to check it out.
The drive from Denver to Steamboat is three hours of humbling nature. I nearly cried at the snow-capped beauty and quite literally could not believe my eyes. It sparked some sincerely mushy moments of shared excitement between Todd and I. I experienced significant discomfort, though, as the altitude was starting to affect my body even then.
When we got to town, it was too early to check in at our hotel, The Steamboat Grand, so we went right to the hot spring. Twenty minutes outside of town and off the beaten path, Strawberry Park is something of a dream. It’s nestled in the woods and everything is structured by stone, preparing visitors to spot hobbits and fairies popping in and out of the storybook cabins situated above the pools. The pool temperatures range from perfectly cool swimming pool to piping hot jacuzzi. Because you’re surrounded by trees and the heat in Colorado is dry, it was never too hot to be in hot water. Todd and I spent the entire afternoon in utter disbelief of how a place could be so ethereal. We’ve already planned to return in the winter.
Once we got back to town, my throat started hurting and I knew what was in store. We checked in to our hotel and I immediately broke into a fever—chills, body ache, and restlessness galore. I can’t even express how deeply saddened I was. The next day we had planned to hike Routt National Forest all day, and I was completely down for the count. Thankfully I chose the Steamboat Grand for it’s epic pool and hot tub, so I laid by the pool the whole day and got a solid tan while combating my throat pain with Bulleit on the rocks. I sure know how to approach illness!
Red Rocks
After a solid night’s sleep, homeopathic meds Todd purchased from some witch doctor, and two organic acai bowls, I woke up good as gold for Red Rocks. We headed back to Denver and met our friend Richie and his girlfriend Naomi to hit the road for Dead Beats, a 2-day mini-fest orchestrated by DJ duo, Zeds Dead. After an hour of feuding with Todd who got absurdly drunk and needed babysat (I have sworn to keep it real on here), we had the time of our lives dancing between rust-colored rock formations to Habstrakt, Eprom, Rusko, and Zeds Dead. If you’re ever in Colorado, I highly recommend visiting this gnarly venue regardless of whether you know the artist playing. It’s a bucket list experience.
For the 4th of July, we had hoped to get in some outdoor activity time, but somewhere along our journey, we popped the tire of our rental car. Instead, we spent the day poolside with friends, old and new, drinking beer and cooking out until sunset. It’s so refreshing to catch up with people who make it feel like you haven’t missed a beat.
So I didn’t have the zen, cell phone service free trip to Colorado that I envisioned. I didn’t trek any mountains or zipline through trees into some crystal body of water while Joni Mitchell played in the background. But I explored, and swam, and jammed, and swapped stories, and ate, and drank, and kissed, and photographed, and danced, and smiled for one hell of a week. It reminded me how much I feel at home away from home—how living out of a suitcase and seeing places with fresh eyes evokes the same kind of calm as collapsing into my own bed after a week away. Defining home may be a lifelong voyage for me, but I’m happy to have writing as my compass. Colorado, your views and brews have stolen my heart and I cannot wait to come back.
