Sunday night I spontaneously went to a concert with three of my friends. Upon entry, the girl who scanned my ticket complimented my dress. On our way to the bar afterward, a woman lounging on the stoop of a building along Girard Ave complimented my dress as well. “You are ROCKIN it, girl,” she slurred between drunken bites of a McChicken.
Both times I proudly explained that it’s a $.99 nightgown thrifted from The Salvation Army. I paired the white silk frock with black Italian leather Matisse ankle boots that I bought for less than half price on Poshmark, and a tiny, black leather purse I found at Buffalo Exchange. All of my jewelry? Passed down from my mother or gifted from a brand I promote on Instagram.
All aboard the secondhand train! I am your frugal conductor.
Slow Fashion Season is a crowdacting campaign running from June 21st-September 21st that’s only rule is #nonewclothes. Thrifting, consignment, and upcycling are the name of the game. As I’ve already been riding this wave for months, I thought now would be the perfect time to offer insight and tips.
First and foremost, let me break down the different avenues of slow fashion. Thrift stores sell donated clothing. Consignment shops sell your used clothing and pay you a portion of the sale. Vintage upselling involves curating thrifted clothing and selling it for a profit. Upcycling is the creative reuse of recycled materials or clothing.
Capisci?
Why Do It?
Slow fashion forces you to accost the demons of materialism while giving your wallet, the environment, and underpaid/mistreated workers around the globe a break.
We’ve gotten used to seeing the shiny, new thing—>deciding we want the shiny, new thing—>and buying the shiny, new thing without much deliberation. Social media keeps us on trend, and the proliferation of influencer marketing offers just enough edge of attainability to turn lust into purchase. Mmm, that tasty rush of dopamine.
Shopping secondhand charges us to consume more selectively. Gone are the days of mindlessly raiding the racks of Forever 21 when the temperatures hit 80 degrees. Slow fashionistas get a piece or style in mind and search apps and thrift/consignment stores accordingly. The process encourages patience. When you’re dying to add those vintage Levis to your wardrobe, committing to buying them used might take time to find the right style and size. It makes you appreciate the piece once you finally get your hands on it, and you’ll feel less apt to keep searching for the next best thing. Thrifting is a lot like love, huh?
My personal style has evolved since shopping almost exclusively secondhand. Because I’m not usually looking for specific brands, I rely solely on my vision for that piece and the feeling it evokes at discovery. It commands me to get real about what I like, rather than what’s hot right now. And if I’m lucky, they occasionally align.
Where I Shop
On America’s autopsy report, the cause of death will surely be “consumerist strangulation.” Lucky for secondhand shoppers, with the insatiable need for more stuff comes endless gems being sold and donated!
My favorite place to thrift is The Salvation Army in my hometown of Danville, PA—about 2.5 hours northwest of Philadelphia. Aside from recently acquiring a Taco Bell, the most exciting thing about Danville is its massive hospital, Geisinger. What’s that mean for me as a shopper? I’m stuffing bags with all the dope threads rejected by doctors, administrators, and other well-paid folk. Consignment options are limited in small towns without cities nearby, so people are more inclined to donate to places like The Salvation Army or Goodwill. I’ve found the thrift scene in Philadelphia really dry, presumably because people here know there are plenty of places to make money off their unwanted clothes.
As for consignment, I’m big on Buffalo Exchange. There are 50 stores in 19 states, with one here in Philadelphia on Chestnut Street. Buffalo is picky about what they’ll take from people, so the selection is typically quite hip.
Vintage upselling is huge right now. I’ve considered doing it myself. I love Raxx Vintage Emporium in Philadelphia on South Street. You can also find great upselling shops on Etsy and Poshmark.
When it comes to apps, I use Poshmark and Depop. While Poshmark has a wider range of goods, Depop centers on streetwear and high fashion. There are other apps like Grailed, but these are the two I’ve used. Whenever I’m looking for something specific, Poshmark is my first line of fire. There have been plenty of times I’ve walked into stores like Urban Outfitters, found something I liked, and immediately hit Poshmark to get it half price.
What I Look For
More important than where you go to shop pre-owned is knowing what to look for. You’ll naturally find things you never knew you needed while thrifting just like any other shopping trip, but when you know what to look for, you can strategically procure infinitely cooler pieces.
Everyone’s style is different, but because I frequently get questions about how I found certain vintage items, I thought it’d be helpful to provide a loose list of items I always check on:
- Jeans. This should be a no-brainer. With today’s variety of trendy denim, thrift stores are your best friend for acquiring authentic pairs with that perfectly worn feel. Want something more current? Search Poshmark for the brand, style, and size and you’ll swear to never pay Revolve prices again.
- Athletic wear. I love sweatpants that strike the perfect balance of baggy and slim with a tight elastic ankle. Wear them with heels or ankle boots for a feminine twist! Vintage basketball shorts. Windbreaker jackets. Crewnecks. Anything with a distinctly 80s-90s feel looks great with my trademark stack of gold chains. From Poshmark, I’ll buy contemporary brands like Outdoor Voices for insane prices. I’ll devise a story for each piece, like some rich woman named Muffy whose husband buys her everything got sick of these leggings after one hot yoga class and pocketed the money she didn’t spend by selling them to moi on Poshmark.
- Nightgowns. I love a good slip dress, and vintage nightgowns make the absolute best. I like to pair them with sneakers for a hood fairy princess lewk.
- Oversized tie-dyes. My drawers are packed with massive tie-dye t-shirts carefully plucked from The Salvation Army. My style is a good mix of masculine and feminine, and these are my androgynous go-tos.
- T-shirts for cutting. Think that old 5k t-shirt isn’t fit for public wear beyond the gym? Wrong. Cut the bottom off so it’s short, but not a crop top (preferably no midriff) and it becomes the perfect length shirt that looks as great with jeans or a skirt as it does your Lululemon. I dress these up and wear them out for that vintage, one of one feel.
- Linen pants. From whites and lights to classic black, baggy linen pants are incredibly versatile. I have multiple pairs from thrift stores and I always keep my eye out.
- Button-down dress shirts. Be it a nice silk piece or some structured, oversized menswear, button-down dress shirts are a move.
- Jackets. Hands down, the best jackets you’ll find are at thrift stores. Two of my personal favorites, a neon yellow peacoat and an oversized men’s acid wash denim jacket, are from The Salvation Army.
- Turtlenecks. Need I say more?
- Vintage gems. I once found a woven purse for $3 at Goodwill that rivaled every Cult Gaia or rattan something of 2018. When I was at a record store over Christmas, I found a rhinestone covered cardigan with a giant sequin Mercedes-Benz emblem on the back. The other day I bought the most beautiful women’s Hawaiian shirt with huge gold buttons. When you’re open to unique pieces, they will always find you.
I could go on for hours about my obsession with slow fashion. Committing to this lifestyle has added an adventurous layer to my sartorial passion. To know you’re doing something good for yourself and the world is a small act of rebellion that gives each outfit that extra splash of Tapatio. GTFO of H&M and sauce it up, sis.